They say in Barbados all roads lead to rum. It is, with the exception of Rihanna, the country’s most famous export after all. But don’t be fooled: there’s more to this state island than its famous firewater.
Take for example its 97km of coastline, rugged on the Atlantic east coast but akin to the world’s most scenic bathtub on the south and west coast, where the water of the Caribbean Sea is your oyster.
I'm staying at the Abidah by Accra Hotel in Christ Church, perched on the south-west corner of this picture-postcard island, a stone’s throw from Enterprise Beach that comes with a sea view to die for.
The four-star adults-only boutique hotel opened in 2019 and features an elegant, modern design and a jacuzzi on the balcony as standard. Not to mention hotel manager Stanley Mayers, a colourful raconteur with an eye for fine tailoring and impeccable hospitality.
And what better way to brush away the cobwebs after finally touching down in paradise? A dip… after the customary rum punch, of course.
“Glorious morning for it, isn’t it?” a voice uttered behind me as I entered the water. Sea aerobics to Barbadians is the gym to Irish, and if you go swimming between 7-8am don’t be surprised if you inadvertently end up in the middle of a class.
After a freshener - and a wake-up call in the form of my diminishing fitness levels - it’s on to St Nicholas Abbey, one of four rum distilleries on the island and home to a working heritage steam railway.
"Their intention is to make quality rum,” says Marc McCollin, our guide from Island Time Rum Tours. “They make roughly the same in one year as Mount Gay [arguably Barbados’ most famous distiller] makes in a month or two, and that’s how they want it to be.”
Take the train to Cherry Tree Hill, some 750ft above sea level, for breathtaking views before a guided tour of the plantation and a chance to crush sugar canes, as well as sample the hard stuff.
"What moves a lot in Barbados is rum, vodka, scotch and brandy/cognac”, says Marc. “There's no big cocktail culture. You either drink your spirit neat, over ice or with a mixer. We market ourselves as an all-inclusive island. There's nothing you can't do here.”
Barbados is a bona fide year-round destination; there really is no bad time to visit. Although if you’d rather escape the rare downpours completely, your best bet is to go between mid-December and mid-April, during the dry season.
If it’s that island festival vibe you’re looking for, you’ll need to widen your window. The Barbados Celtic Festival runs in May, while Crop Over - and its famous Kadooment Day - is in August.
The former is a vibrant music and food festival celebrating the deep history between Barbados and the Celtic countries of Ireland, Scotland and Wales.
But for a true carnival atmosphere every week, head to Oistins for its famous Fish Fryday spectacle. This is a Barbados institution, with Friday being a big night out for locals, and Pat’s Place being widely regarded as having the very best fish fryers around.
Expect plenty of flying fish, mahi-mahi, marlin and swordfish, each served with local vegetables such as yams, sweet potato, or breadfruit. Diners sit elbow-to-elbow with a front-row view of two giant barbecues where the chefs master their craft, like witnessing poetry in motion.
The smell of the barbecue, the tang of the rum sours, and the persistent throb of the soca coming from the nearby stage is a very heady brew indeed.
Tourists and locals both come here to drink and to dance, and the many stalls dotted around the site give it a real festival feel. If sub-bass isn’t your thing, you can take a walk behind the outdoor stage to a place that time forgot.
In a scene from the 1960s, well-dressed couples danced close in a three-step to northern soul, ska, and even country. Quarter bottles of Mount Gay lay ‘flattened’ on Formica tables and the locals sprang to their feet for the Barbados national anthem at the end of the night.
If you’re feeling ‘rummed out’ after a night at Oistins, the Fisherman’s Pub in Speightstown on the north-west coast can provide the perfect tonic.
It’s been part of the same family for 87 years and under the stewardship of owner Clement Armstrong for 51 of those. The self-styled Bajan seaside bar serves a traditional buffet lunch from 11am until late evening, to be washed down with the island’s finest liquor while overlooking miles of coastline. (Spoiler alert: the macaroni pie is as incredible as it sounds).
No trip to the Caribbean would be complete without swimming in pristine turquoise water. Think pictures from 1990s holiday brochures and you’ll be there or thereabouts, only better.
Cool Runnings operates five-hour-long catamaran cruises along Barbados’ crystal clear coastline. Starting in the capital Bridgetown, passengers are taken to swim with turtles and snorkel around a shipwreck before being served up a fine spread of fresh seafood, chicken and salad. Drinks? Included in the fare (approx €96), and the return journey to the port resembles more of a party boat.
If you’re in the mood to continue - and, frankly, why the hell wouldn’t you be - then head into Bridgetown to arguably the most authentic bar on the whole island, the aptly named Beer Mug Bar. It’s the type of watering hole where beer comes in bottles only and you will have to open it yourself, watched by locals who look like they’re part of the furniture.
For a little more pizzazz, go south to Blakey’s on the Boardwalk. ‘Good Food, Good Lime and Good Music’ is its motto, with a constant steam of musicians on weekends and having fun mandatory. If you’re lucky, you might hit on the extremely popular barbecue and hoards of people ordering a fish cutter. In Ireland, it’s what you and I would know simply as fried fish in a bap - but it’s a must-try.
History buffs and thrill-seekers would be hard-stretched to find a better attraction than Harrison’s Cave Eco-Adventure Park, at which you can get a guided tour of crystallised limestone caves 160ft beneath sea level, and follow it up with activities such as ziplines and obstacle courses.
True to form, the 'après-ski' activity involves rum so take off your hard hat and take in the ultimate tasting tour that celebrates the world-famous elixir born on these sun-kissed shores.
For that special occasion, Champers Restaurant should be top of your list. Nestled between Rockley Beach and Worthing Beach, it’s the standard bearer in luxury dining.
Outside, unrivalled views greet diners supping dark ‘N’ stormys on the balcony - and the service is faultless. Inside, a modern art gallery sits above the restaurant showcasing work of the finest local talent. My advice: ask for the crab crêpe and if mahi mahi’s on the menu, order it.
If familiar surroundings are more your thing, head to McNaughty's Irish pub on St Lawrence Gap, the island’s main nightlife strip. By now you’ll know that Bajans drink their rum like the Irish drink Guinness. Locals aren’t averse to the Black Stuff, either.
After a toast and a gulp, let the chatter begin and good times roll. The Irish-Bajan meeting of minds really should happen more often, if only to establish who can talk and drink the most.
And at the end of the day - after a sea swim, a slice of macaroni pie and one final gaze at this paradisiacal land - you know what to do.
GET THERE
Fly direct to Barbados from London Gatwick, London Heathrow, or Manchester. Airlines flying direct from the UK are BA, Virgin, and Aer Lingus, all with good connections from regional airports and Ireland.
STAY
Check in at The Abidah by Accra on Barbados’ south coast, theabidahhotel.com
MORE INFO
To keep up with the latest info for next year’s Barbados Celtic Festival, visit www.barbadoscelticfestival.com. For more information on what to do in Barbados, see visitbarbados.com
